Spring Break Chronicles- Part 3, Zimbabwe
Now I realize that it’s a little ridiculous to be chronicling my spring break trip almost two months late, but again, I’ve been a little busy.
After travelling the entire length of Botswana, we crossed the border again, and headed into Zimbabwe. Here we reached the greatest luxury imaginable- actual rooms with beds and showers! I have to be honest though, I really missed camping after almost an entire week in the wilderness. There is something so peaceful and contemplative about camping, and this trip definitely incited my interest in it.
Our first afternoon, we checked into the “adventure lodge” signed up for activities- I chose white water rafting and an elephant safari, and headed to the falls. To be honest I had no idea what to expect with Victoria Falls. I have seen Niagara before, and while they were certainly pretty, they were not as overwhelming and awe inspiring as I had hoped. This was not the case with Victoria Falls. The falls were outrageously beautiful, it was the type of scene that makes you believe that there’s some grand design to the universe, and reminds you of how small you are. The sound alone was crazy, this deep crushing roar that came from all sides. Moving to the very edge of the falls was both terrifying and exhilarating, watching tons of water cascading down, and catching a glimpse of the first rapid we would traverse while rafting the next day.
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| permanent rainbow over the falls |
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| on the edge |
Friday we woke up extremely early for white water rafting. We headed out in a safari vehicle, got kitted out and hiked down to the Zambezi. Our guide, Stuart, explained that we would be going through 19 named/numbered rapids and several other smaller ones. We were in the river during “dry” season, so there was less water. At this point, parts of the Zambezi are class 6 rapids- which are not allowed for commercial groups, while others are 1-5. During the wet season however, the river is too high for commercial groups to go down, so the operation shuts down for a few months each year.
White water rafting is unlike anything I have ever experienced. While rowing, your adrenaline pumps extremely hard and you don’t feel tired at all. There were several times when our guide Stuart yelled “GET DOWN” which meant that all of us had to crouch and hold on as tightly as possible, as we were facing what felt like certain death in the river. While this was not the case, our raft did flip once, and it was simultaneously the most fun and the most terrifying thing that has ever happened to me. I got trapped under the boat for a few seconds, and had to push myself out from underneath. Everyone that was close enough made a scramble for the raft and just held on as tightly as possible as we escaped the rapid. Yanking myself back into the raft was no small task either. At another point, the water was calm enough that we were all allowed to jump out of the raft and head down a rapid with just our life vests and helmets. Again, it was simultaneously entertaining and horrifying. Somehow I didn’t end up heading the right way in the rapid at first, and got pulled under a few times. Later, because I didn’t have as much momentum or travel as far, I had to swim a little ways to make it back into the raft. Thanks Mom and Dad for having me swim all summer as a child, I’m not sure I would have made it home otherwise! I have never felt more exhausted that I did after collapsing back into the raft, but we weren’t done for the day yet. The thing about rafting is that as long as you continue to row and hit rapids your adrenaline pumps hard enough to keep you going, after wards however, as soon as you come to a break or a stop you are swept with an encompassing exhaustion. At the very end of the day, we had to hike back up the falls from the Zambezi while carrying our paddles and other gear. At that point, I didn’t think I was going to make it, as my asthma kicked up a little, but thankfully I finally reached the top and got to eat one of the most well deserved meals of my life.
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| I'm in the back, holding on for dear life |
Later that evening, after a shower and nap, we headed out on the Zambezi again for a two hour sunset game viewing booze cruise. At only $35, it was some of the best money I spent over break. Everyone just had a really nice time chatting and hanging out, and the sunset, as always, was beautiful. I really grew to enjoy the people on the trip, and some of them have since become some of my best friends here in Cape Town.
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| after the cruise |
Saturday was more of a lazy day. I enjoyed heading down to the market and haggling over goods. Vendors will call you sister, and entice you with good deals, then, for things like hair ties, socks and a little bit of cash you can walk away with great carved items and other goodies. This part of Zimbabwe really feels African, dusty, a mix of traditional and modern housing, noise, animals in the streets; essentially a great atmosphere. That evening we had our final trip dinner at a place called the Boma, which means “place of eating”. While it was obviously geared towards tourists, with cloth being given to each of us, and facepainting before entering, the spread was really interesting. Essentially any type of game was available, and I certainly sampled it all. I tried guinea fowl, antelope, warthog, bream, ostrich, alligator and others, including a Mopani worm, a delicacy in some tribes. While it was a little disconcerting, it wasn’t the worst thing I’ve ever tried. There was also a chance to try some drumming at dinner, and our leader, Ruth, was really into it.
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| downtown Vic Falls |
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| at the Boma with Andrew and Ruth |
Sunday was the final day of our trip. I woke up early and packed up all of my things, then headed out for my elephant safari before the flight. I rode my elephant, Mocoko, through the Victoria Falls game preserve for about an hour, and saw some buffalo and other animals. It was a very smooth ride, and the elephants will occasionally stop to nibble on trees and other goodies. After returning to the starting point, we had the chance to sit with our elephants and feed them for their good work. The elephants trunks feel like giant vacuum hoses and their hair is quite prickly but the elephants themselves are super affectionate and adorable.
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| it feels so strange! |
Flying out of the Zambian airport was ridiculous. The airport itself resembled a warehouse and a stray cat was wandering around, completely undisturbed by airport officials. There were multiple security checkpoints and it took everyone on our trip over one and a half hours to get through them, it definitely felt like a “THIS IS AFRICA” moment. The funniest was my friend Luke being allowed to carry a ceremonial spear on board, it made me feel both safer and unsafe, an interesting mix.
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| interior of Zambian airport |
Overall, I would have to say that this trip was the best week of my life. I saw so many interesting and awe inspiring things, and I feel like I saw more of what South Africa was really like, even the days on the bus were worthwhile, if I had flown I would have missed a lot of things that I saw along the road.
My highlights from the week:
-1st ride in a Mokoro
-whitewater rafting
-sunset game cruise
-elephant safari
-cruising through the delta, seeing hippos and watching the sunset
-lions!
-animals on the side of the road in Botswana, oh hayyy baby elephants!!
As always, thanks for reading.
Xoxo
Sara
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